Friday, October 4, 2013

Enchaud Perigordine - Pork Roast a la Corningware

I think it's time to take a trip back, not too far, but far enough I should think.  Back to a time when the dinner table was not complete without a huge roast as the centerpiece of the table.  Maybe my perception is slightly skewed about this, but I personally, hardly, if ever, roast roasts.  I mean, it's usually only me, myself and I for dinner, and all of us put together can't possible eat our way through 3 lbs of meat.  Not gonna happen, my friends.

That is why it's so nice to have people over for dinner.  You get to exercise your "large portions" muscles.

Let's face it, a well executed Roast makes for a stunning table.  Tonight, I decided on a classic French Pork Loin Roast in the style of Perigord.  Though I cheated again.  I didn't have a trotter (pig foot), so I used the recipe from America's Test Kitchen that I had seen on the PBS which utilized Gelatin to thicken the sauce, since there would be no gelatin cooked out of the foot.  (I knew there was a reason I had saved that to the DVR).

Usually, and by that I mean "Classically" this roast is slow cooked in a big old enameled cast iron dutch oven. (as well as being stuffed with sausage and truffles, but HEY, who has truffles?)  WELL, lemme tell ya somethin'....  A 4 or 5 quart Corningware Dutch Oven works JUST as well, if not better, than a big, fancy $250 Le Creuset or Staub pot. I'm just sayin'.  Personally, I think it's easier to clean too.  But that is probably because I am a little bias. (but I really DO hate cleaning my enameled cast iron skillet)

Corningware actually made several versions of the Dutch Oven or Large Casserole/Saucepan, whichever you prefer to call it.  There is the original 4 quart P-34-B, (some later ones were marked as 5 quart, but the size is the same)

the 4 quart P-84-B, (That I just used for Boiling Ravioli)

and later there was the 5-liter A-5-B. (Shadow Iris)

I think there might even be an A-4-B, but I have not seen one in person, and I don't collect A-series pieces.

Either of these pots will work exceedingly well.  If, however, you are using the P-34-B, keep the stove flame a little lower during the browning process.  The walls of this original 4 quart "Dutch Oven" are thinner than the later P-84-B and A-5-B models.

OK, let's argue semantics  Technically, this is not really a "roast".  Roasting, by definition, means dry heat and this recipe contains liquid, so it's really a braise, not a roast.  Then again, we, in the U.S., refer to large chunks of meat "Roasts" even before they are roasted.  So the argument can be made that while this Roast isn't being roasted, the mere fact that it IS a Pork "Roast" makes it a "Roast", whether roasted, braised, broiled, stewed, sous-vide or deep fried.

Enchaud Perigordine

French Style Pork Loin Roast with Apple and Onion (Adapted from America's Test Kitchen)

2 TB Butter, divided
10 Garlic Cloves, sliced thin
2-3 lb Pork Loin Roast (bone out)
1 TB Salt (this seems like a lot, but it's not really)
1 tsp Sugar
Black Pepper
2 tsp Herbes de Provence
2 TB Olive Oil, divided
1 Newtown Pippin Apple, peeled, cored and diced
1 Sweet Onion, chopped fine
1/3 cup Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay
2 sprigs fresh Thyme or 2 tsp dried Thyme
1 Bay Leaf
1/4 cup Chicken Stock
1 TB Unflavored Gelatin
optional - 1 TB Fresh Italian Parsley, chopped

2 Grab-It Bowls (P-150-B) with 1 Glass Lid
4 or 5 Quart Dutch Oven (P-34-B, P-84-B or A-5-B) with Glass Lid (P-12-C or A-12-C)

Adjust the oven rack to the lower middle portion of the oven and preheat to 225F degrees. (You read that correctly, only 225 degrees - it's ALL about low and s-l-o-w)
In the Grab-it Bowl (P-150-B) melt 1 TB Butter over low flame.

Add 1/2 of the sliced Garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, for 7-10 minutes, until the garlic just begins to turn golden (this is really more of a poaching, since the butter isn't super hot).

Cover with the Glass Lid and refrigerate until ready to use.

Remove the roast from it's wrappings and Double Butterfly the Roast so it will fold up like a letter or a tri-fold wallet.

Sprinkle each side with 1/2 TB of Salt and rub it in until the surface become tacky.

With the fat side down, sprinkle the top (what will be the inside after folding) with the Sugar, then remove the Garlic Butter from the refrigerator, and spread it over the inside of the Roast as well.

Fold the Roast up, keeping the fat side down.

Tie it up with kitchen twine, spacing the ties about 1 inch apart.

 
Season with Black Pepper and Herbes de Provence. (I skipped the Herbes de Provence this time)

Begin heating 1 TB Olive Oil in your 4 or 5 quart Corningware Dutch Oven...  If using a P-34-B (like I did), use Medium-Low flame, if using P-84-B or A-5-B, go ahead and use Medium flame.

Brown the roast on three sides (Not the bottom where the twine is tied) starting with the Fat side. (about 6-8 minutes total)

Remove from the Dutch Oven to a plate.

Add the remaining 1 TB Olive Oil to the Dutch Oven along with the Onion and Apple and cook for 5-7 minutes, just until the onions begin to brown.

Add White Wine and the Bay leaf along with the Thyme and the remaining Garlic.

After about 1 minute, place the Roast back in the Dutch Oven, Fat side up.

Cover with a piece of Aluminum Foil and then place the lid on top. (I found that this was not really necessary)

Move the whole thing to the preheated oven.

Grab another Grab-it Bowl (P-150-B), or wash the one you made the Garlic Butter in, and place 1/4 cup of Chicken Stock then sprinkle with 1 TB Gelatin, allowing it to bloom while the roast is cooking.

Braise for 50 minutes, then check the internal temperature to ensure it has reached 140F degrees in the center. If not, braise about 10-15 minutes longer and check again.

When the braised Roast reaches 140F Degrees, extract the Dutch Oven from the Oven (hee hee), move the "Roast" to a plate and tent loosely with Aluminum Foil.

Measure out the liquid (along with the apples and onions) in a pitcher, if you have less than 1 1/4 cups, augment with more chicken stock and add the contents of the pitcher back to the dutch oven and set over Medium-Low flame.

Add the Gelatin mixture and 1 TB Butter.

Stir until the Gelatin melts and the sauce begins to simmer.

Remove from the flame and pour into a gravy boat for passing around the table.
When the Pork Loin has rested, slice into 3/4 inch pieces.

Serve with Gelatin fortified sauce.

With Squash Streusel and Sauteed Baby Greens, your good to go.


A moist tender and delicious braised roast that is perfect for a chilly Autumn meal.

Where is your Corningware??
~~

Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Eye Candy Corn-ingware - Pumpkin Ravioli in Sage Browned Butter

I have discovered something wonderful about the weirdly shaped French White piece I found at the Goodwill a while back...

Unlike the original version of French White, being the straight sided souffle-esque dishes.

This strange looking "newer?" version works GREAT on the stove, for it actually HAS something akin to handles.

Thus, it is, armed with copious pieces from my collection, I embarked upon Ravioli.  Granted, I cheated.  Wonton is by no means a replacement for a good pasta, but under time constraints, it will suffice.  It's not nearly as tasty as pasta and they stick together horribly after cooking, but sometimes ya just gotta do what ya gotta do.

Which brings me to this feast of Corningware pieces used in the preparation.  By NO means, whatsoever, do you need to have all these pieces to make ravioli, but I thought it would be fun to break out as many pieces as possible.  I will say this, however...  Making the filling is infinitely easier in an actual piece of Corningware.  It goes from the stove top to the refrigerator for storage in a snap.  The rest of it is all eye candy.

Pumpkin Ravioli in Sage Browned Butter

2 TB unsalted Butter
2 Leeks, sliced thinly (white and light green parts only)
a pinch of Red pepper Flake
1 Garlic Clove, crushed
1 (15oz) can Pumpkin Puree
3 TB Olive Oil
4 oz Soft Goat Cheese, crumbled
Salt & Pepper
1 pkg Wonton Wrappers (I like the square ones)

Sauce:
4 oz unsalted Butter
1/2 tsp Salt
1 tsp fresh Sage, chopped
2 TB Heavy Cream

Serving:
Arugula
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Walnuts, toasted & chopped

Corningware Cast:
Weirdly Shaped French White 2qt Dish with Lid
Cornflower Bake & Broil trays (P-35-B)
Wheat Bake & Broil tray (W-35-B)
All/Just White Counter Saver (20x14)
Grab-it Bowl 15oz bowl  (P-150-B)
Cornflower 4 Quart Saucepan (P-34-B)

First, you need to melt the 2 TB of Unsalted Butter in your weirdly shaped French White 2 quart dish, set over medium flame.


When the butter is melted, add the Leeks and begin sauteing until they begin to soften a little.

Add the Red Pepper Flake and the crushed Garlic, sauteing about 2-3 minutes longer.


Remove from the flame, and stir in the Pumpkin puree.

Crumble the Goat Cheese and add it to the mixture as well.

Stirring until everything becomes creamy looking.

Add the Olive Oil and season with Salt and Pepper.

Cover and refrigerate until completely cooled, about 1 hour (warm filling makes gooey pasta & wonton)


Meanwhile, prep your assembly area.....

Grab your Bake & Broil trays (P/W-35-B)...

Sprinkle them liberally with flour, so the pasta/wonton doesn't stick.

Grab your Counter Saver....  (I like the counter saver, even though I have granite counter tops)

Don't forget to fill a small ramekin with water and grab a pastry brush.....  (I forgot, oops)

Lay out the Wonton wrappers.

Remove the filling from the refrigerator and grab a teaspoon.

Place about 1 tsp of filling on each wrapper.

Brush 2 edges with water.

Fold into a triangle and press down 1 side.

Pick up the Ravioli and carefully press the other side together, making sure to get as much air out as possible.

I usually do 1 row, or about 4 at a time....

Using a fork, press down on the folded edges.


Move to the floured Bake & Broil tray (P/W-35-B)

Repeat with the remaining Wonton and filling, until you have filled both trays (about 4 dozen) Don't worry, you will probably have 1 or 2 Wonton wrappers left over.

Cover with plastic wrap and move to the freezer for 30 minutes. (they seem to boil better if they are partially frozen first)


While the Ravioli are chillin in the freezer.....

Place 4 oz Butter in a 15oz Grab-it bowl (P-150-B) set over low flame, then add the chopped Sage and season with Salt once the butter melts.

Cook slowly until the butter begins to brown, then remove from the flame and stir in the Heavy Cream.

Keep warm over low flame.

Fill a 4qt Saucepan (P-34-B) with 3 quarts of water and add 2 TB Salt, then bring to a boil over medium-high flame.

Remove the Ravioli from the freezer.

Drop about 12 Ravioli at a time, into the boiling water.

Remove them when they float.

Place in a warmed bowl and drizzle with the warm browned butter.

Continue until all the Ravioli have been boiled and coated in browned butter.

Serve over on a bed of Arugula.....

Sprinkled with Toasted Walnuts (or Pecans) and freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Where is your Corningware??
~~